Breasts, Pigs & the Bizarre Marzipan Tradition
Today is National Marzipan Day. Growing up in the U.S., marzipan wasn’t really a popular treat, and my experience with it was limited to using it in place of fondant for a smooth finish on cakes. I thought this would be a great opportunity to learn more about the delicacy, as well as try my hand at making it.
As it turns out, Marzipan has a blurry and hotly contested past, but it has been a favorite in Europe for hundreds of years. It is a confection made of nuts and sugar and is believed to have been brought to Europe from the Middle East, but even that is debated.
While almond paste had long been used in the Middle East, several European cities lay claim to the the invention of marzipan. Toledo, Spain, and Lübeck, Germany, both have similar origin stories of a wheat shortage that forced enterprising nuns and bakers to sustain their communities with what they had on hand: almonds. According to the legends, they made a concoction of ground almonds and sugar that was so delicious it would become a much loved confection for hundreds of years.
While it can be made out of cashews or pistachios (especially in India), marzipan is typically made with almonds. Blanched almonds are ground and mixed with sugar, and depending on the region (and the maker), may also include rosewater, eggs, or bitter almond essence. The resulting dough may then be baked, used in cakes and cookies, or formed into shapes with special molds, most often fruits and veggies.
The star of marzipan is the almonds, with the higher ratio of almonds to sugar defining the quality of the marzipan. Almonds are believed to have originated in Asia and spread west, becoming an integral part of the diet wherever they went. Cultivated for thousands of years, the almond pops up in ancient lore and traditions around the world and is often associated with hope, growth, and fertility.
In Greek mythology, the severed penis of hermaphrodite demi-god Agdistis grew into an almond tree. A virgin placed an almond from the tree in her bosom and she gave birth to to a child named Attis, grown from the power of the almond. In the Bible, God blessed an almond branch and when it was placed in front of sheep they became more fertile. In other cultures, almonds are frequently seen to symbolize health, fertility, and sexuality, sometimes being used as an aphrodisiac.
With these connotations, it is not surprising that the confection that we know as marzipan was often a symbol of wealth, abundance, and fertility. And while the origins of marzipan may be unclear, the treats made out of ground almonds and sugar have figured in celebrations around the world for centuries.
In Sicily, the legend of St. Agatha revolves around a young maiden who spurned the advances of a Roman governor and would not sacrifice her faith. Her punishment was to have her breasts cut off and was tortured to death. To celebrate, Italians make little cakes covered in marzipan and topped with cherries to resemble the severed breasts. A macabre treat, but especially popular during the Feast of St. Agatha, observed on February 5th.
In Germany and some other parts of Europe, marzipan pigs are common around Christmas and New Years, and symbolize good luck. This comes from medieval times, when farmers with good fortune had sows with plentiful litters, and the term “having a pig” meant being lucky. In 2016 Norwegian artist Erik Pirolt sculpted the largest pig out of marzipan. Weighing in at over 1, 760 pounds, it broke the record for largest marzipan pig when you take into account the pile of chocolate coated marzipan poop coming out of its backside. However, most marzipan pigs given out for luck on New Years are much smaller-and not defecating.
Because of its versatility and ability to be formed into various shapes, marzipan has enjoyed a renewed interest, especially in artists showcasing their talents on social media. The marzipan can be molded much like play-doh, which makes it ideal for making realistic, edible decorations.
It is probably this same reason da Vinci historically made models out of polenta and marzipan for his inventions. Although in da Vinci’s case, he bemoaned the fact that his labors were too tasty, and eaten too quickly; vowing in the future to “find other means that do not taste as good, so that my works may survive."
Since I have little experience with marzipan, my attempts were neither as delicious or as beautifully constructed as da Vinci’s were reported to have been. However, thanks to Amazon I was able to find some comparable ingredients to try my hand. I used a recipe from Ela Vegan that created a not-too-sweet dough that I was able to work with to make some basic shapes. For my next attempt, I am looking forward to sampling recipes from Gaitri Pagrach-Chandra’s Sugar & Spice, Sweets & Treats from Around the World to expand my skill.
For today, whether you are able to score some commercial marzipan at your local grocer or you attempt to make it yourself, relax and enjoy. If you are interested in learning more while you savor the treat, pair it with Savor’s podcast on the subject, The Marzipan Episode is Shaping Up. Good luck, and Happy New Year!
